If you have ever dreamt of spending a night on akettuvallum (rice barge) houseboat, cruising the backwaters while an on-board chef prepares fresh barbecued fish or a succulent Keralan curry, you’ve already got the Kerala bug. But there’s a whole other Kerala lying north of Kochi that is only just starting to capture travellers’ imaginations.
The beaches, backwaters and wildlife sanctuaries in the southern half of the state are now established stops on the traveller trail, but those in the know are turning their attention to the north of , where the Arabian Sea beaches are just as gobsmacking, the wildlife sanctuaries just as teeming, the temple rituals even more mind-blowing and the impact of tourism is only just starting to be felt. Welcome to , authentically Indian and far from the regular tourist trail.
The beaches, backwaters and wildlife sanctuaries in the southern half of the state are now established stops on the traveller trail, but those in the know are turning their attention to the north of , where the Arabian Sea beaches are just as gobsmacking, the wildlife sanctuaries just as teeming, the temple rituals even more mind-blowing and the impact of tourism is only just starting to be felt. Welcome to , authentically Indian and far from the regular tourist trail.
Blissful beaches & backwater backwaters
When people talk about Keralan beaches, they usually mean
and the clifftop backpacker enclave at . Both are beloved and lovely, but touristy and crammed in the winter season, with wall-to-wall resorts, restaurants and souvenir stalls. But north of is an interrupted and virtually people-free stretch of Arabian Sea coast just begging to be explored, and not a trinket seller in sight.
The best and most accessible seashore is around
. Just 8km south of Kannur city, Thottada beach is home to fishing villages and a growing number of charming, local homestays, where you can stay relatively cheaply with a local family and eat some of the best home-cooked meals India has to offer. If you like your beaches golden and deserted, other than the odd fishing boat being hauled in from the breakers, this is the place to stay - just endless sand as far as the eye can see and glorious sunsets melting into the ocean. Be warned though: the sand shelves steeply and rips are strong, so paddling rather than swimming may be the order of the day.